This is the procedure for doing the doors correctly.
Step one: Take one original door complete with factory moulded plastic base speaker. Take plastic off and remove residue.
Step two: Apply sound deadening to outer skin.
Step three: Add diffuser panels behind the speaker. Tie the factory speaker wires back up to the loom as you'll be running aftermarket ones.
Step four: Run aftermarket speaker cables through modified door plug socket. In the 3 where the cables run through to the doors, we simply machine a single hole (diameter varies depending on gauge of cable; pictured below is Audison Connection Sonus 14 gauge). This hole should be located between the main wires and that is where the aftermarket cables run through. These holes are traditionally blank. If need be you can also remove the plug totally and run your own loom tubes.
Step five: Sound deaden inner skin and remove air bubbles. Seal spacer onto door. Leave enough clearance for door handle and lock control rods to move freely. Also leave a little deadening around the top of the speaker hole to act as a 'roof' against water when it rains.
Step six: Create the spacers. These should be drilled to match up with the doors factory holes ensuring you don't damage the car by drilling holes).
Step seven: Make sure the midrange has a gasket because there is little use in going to all this trouble and then having no seal on the door itself. Solder the trimmed speaker wires onto speaker. Don't use crimp terminals because their two best traits are falling off and creating resistance.
Step eight: Heat shrink around the terminals to protect them. Unlike electrical tape, heat shrink will not begin moving after a couple of months.
Step nine: Screw speaker onto spacer. Make sure you seal around the baffle and place a gasket between the speaker and the baffle in order to keep the bass strong.
There you have it; one Mazda 3 door done, Fhrx Studios style.
*Originally posted by FHRX*
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